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I received an e-mail from a fellow rider from a local HOG Chapter who had an interesting question that I wanted to share with you, and along with “John’s” question, my response. The reason I chose to share this with you is because I believe his question is a very good one and holds some basic truths. It just may hit home for some of you, but only you’ll know if it does. I also chose to share my response to Johns’ question with you because this is something I have spoken to many of you about in the past, and I wanted to put it in writing. Besides, I can’t think of a better way than to use it as a basis for this month’s article.
The Question:
Gary,
I hope you don't mind if I impose upon you with a question and some advice. When we met last time, John Smith (not his real name) and you talked about the new touring frames and the ETC (electronic throttle control). I listened with interest, not thinking that I would someday become the proud owner of a new 2010 Ultra Limited…but I got one a week ago Tuesday. I rode a 2003 Heritage until then. I am having a helluva time with slow riding drills that used to be second nature, especially with the friction zone. It’s a whole new ballgame. Any tips you can give me?
John
My response:
Hi John,
No imposition whatsoever – glad to help (or try too)…it’s one of my passions!
First of all, congrats on getting a new Ultra Limited – that has just about everything on it, and she must be a great looking machine!! Now on to your question…
I think what you may be experiencing is a phenomenon I like to call the “F.U.D. factor.” It stands for “Fear, Uncertainty & Doubt.” But I have plagiarized it a bit so that it applies to motorcycle riders.
Let’s try to break it down…
Fear:
You just spent a lot of hard earned cash on a brand new bike, and a nice one…so you are either consciously or subconsciously fearful of dropping it and damaging it, which is perfectly normal. I’m that way with each new bike I get, but that is only until I drop it the first time…then I know it just became a “real motorcycle” and that “fear” quickly dissipates. J
Seriously, fear is one of the #1 mental roadblocks most all riders experience when they get a brand new motorcycle or one with some “experience,” yet still new to them. You’re going to have to take your own sweet time and do what is personally comfortable for you.
Uncertainty:
Being unfamiliar with a new machine, one tends to question each and every control and “if” that control works exactly the same way as the machine they are (were) use to. I can assure of 2 things…#1) Almost every motorcycle operates the same, and #2) NO motorcycle ever “feels” the same. Even identical models parked right next to each other will feel different. These subtle differences or “feels” need to be overcome, and to most that soon will happen just by virtue of riding it. Hence the “uncertainty” factor plays into the equation.
Doubt:
During the time where you are breaking it in and learning about the [new] machine, you are uncertain about its feel, weight, turning radius, suspension and just about everything else…most of that is brought on by that “fear” of dropping the motorcycle, and then being overly cautious…and when you add uncertainty to fear you get doubt.
You start saying things to yourself like; “Humm…I just don’t think I can ride this motorcycle the way I rode my 2003 Heritage…” and then you get it in your mind or start doubting this machine will operate the same way. That is often followed by your questioning the techniques (or you doubt them), and more importantly – you start doubting yourself.
It is said that one can overcome the “F.U.D. factor” by applying logic & practice…well, there is one more very important addition to that formula when applied to motorcycle riding, and that is by “applying proper technique.”
It is difficult to put a finger on the exact problem you’re having John, so let’s just try to wipe the slate clean and go back to the (3) basics techniques, which are “Friction Zone, Head & Eyes and Rear Brake.
Friction Zone:
As a refresher, remember that the friction zone is the area on the clutch where when eased out, the power from the engine starts to be generated to the rear wheel. Hence, the motorcycle starts moving. Clutch adjustment is critical in being able to effectively apply this technique.
The “factory” setting will allow the rider to start feeling the machine move when the clutch lever is at approximately the 3 ½ to 4 position (“0 position” is all the way squeezed in, “5 position” is all the way out). They all differ, so don’t take that as “gospel,” but I believe the factory adjusts to this setting so that the average rider will only have to move the clutch lever slightly to disengage the clutch when shifting up and down in gears. I still believe that they don’t really consider any slow riding maneuvers – but they should.
Your clutch should be adjusted to a point where the friction zone starts to come in at about the 2 – 2 ½ position (you can personally tune it more if you like). You may also experience the clutch lever being “loose” when all the way extended (in the 5 spot) but that’s okay – and normal. Just be careful adjusting it this way because you’ll have to make a conscience effort to pull the clutch all the way in when shifting so that you don’t grind the gears. Also, make sure to give yourself a little “room” to ease it out and compensate for the engine heat and cold (remembering that the friction zone will fluctuate a little).
The #1 most important control in riding a motorcycle in what you call “slow riding drills” is proper use of the friction zone. Translation = you MUST stay in the friction zone 100% of the time with power going to the rear wheel 100% of the time. You cannot pull it all the way in and then let it all the way out – that is NOT how this works. You’re engine RPM needs to be just slightly above idle, and you have to try your best to maintain steady power to the rear wheel – that is gonna take practice to master, but with the new motorcycles HD is coming out with, (your Ultra included) the clutch is even easier to operate than ever before. But if you pull the clutch in all the way when doing slow maneuvers, it is like pulling the power plug on an air inflatable balloon, and she’ll just drop the same way and so will you!
Head & Eyes:
What more can be said about turning your head and eyes and looking in the direction you want to go? To master this is to master and control your human instincts to look down or to look directly in front of you. You MUST work to overcome this and train yourself to look in the direction you want to go.
One key point I will also add; try to keep your head and eyes level with the horizon at all times – this will help you better balance yourself. And while we’re on the subject of balance, keep your knees on the tank, you’re not a trapeze artist, and your knees are not a balance pole – keep them in, and stay in your seat!!
Rear Brake:
When operating the motorcycle at low speeds and making slow tight turns, proper use of the rear brake is fundamental in helping you control the motorcycle. DON’T think of the rear brake as a mechanism that only stops the motorcycle (it’s just worth about 10-15% of your overall stopping power anyway). When doing slow maneuvers, consider the rear brake to be a mechanism that allows you to CONTROL the motorcycle instead of just stopping it.
You want to just use the ball of your foot, and do what we call “feather it,” or just put a slight drag on it at all times. Doing this will stabilize the suspension and confuse the machine into thinking it’s going a lot faster, and it will act that way…but please also remember to never touch your front brake when doing this with your handlebars turned or it will suck you to the ground like a magnet!
This control technique, like the “friction zone” is one that takes practice to get it right, and when all (3) techniques are applied correctly, the motorcycle will respond in ways you never thought possible!!
Remember too that you must turn the handlebars and you have to allow the motorcycle to LEAN – this is how they turn sharply…the more you can turn the handlebars and lean it while applying these simple techniques, the tighter circles you will be able to make and the better overall control you will have. This is one of the most difficult things to accomplish – achieving the lean angle at low speeds. Just remember that proper use of the friction zone, head & eyes and rear brake all work in unison to each other…and this applies to ALL motorcycles, regardless of their manufacturer, size or style (custom choppers excepted).
Last key point I must make…”Technique + Smoothness = Control.”
I say that because one of the most recognizable skills the top riders see in other riders is how smooth they operate. It’s like a dance of man/woman and machine, becoming one, and done to the music of a symphony. Being a smooth operator is cool…and it will show.
When we drive our cars or trucks, we are riding in them, when we ride a motorcycle, we become the machine…and that John is how the pros do it, and that is what separates the posers from the ones who can walk the walk and not just talk the talk.
I hope that wasn’t too “winded,” and I hope that you can reevaluate what you have or have not been doing and get back on track.
Ride safe – as if your life depends on it!
Gary
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